Landmarks and Harry Potter.

        

Nearing a month since our arrival in Thailand, a landmark I can’t believe is already here, I no longer feel like a guest. I feel like a resident. Granted I’m still a foreigner separated by a vast language barrier and still unaccustomed to some of the Thai’s cultural norms, but I feel like a resident nonetheless. Besides the Thai people themselves, I’ve also received a warm and muggy welcome from the mosquitoes. Since we are well underway with rainy season, they’re beginning to rear their Vampirish heads. For some reason, the first few weeks here were itch free, but now that they too have seen that I’m not longer a guest but a resident, the mosquitoes feel inclined to attack. Perhaps I should feel flattered? Maybe the itchy scars on my feet and ankles will become my souvenir. That being said, I am convinced that Hydro cortisone cream doesn’t stop the itch or help with healing. Rather, it just tricks my mind saying, “Do you really want to scratch those bites and get icky cream all over your hands?”

          The mosquitoes have been the least of my worries, though. Having heard recently that I would have to leave our apartment, living arrangements occupied the forefront of my thought. Dr. Nirund, our organization’s director, visited Utaradit this week in hopes to find a place where Kelsey and I both could live. Last Wednesday, as I raced my bike home in the pouring rain to join the apartment hunt and look at a prospective place, I got a text. It was Kelsey saying, “Relax! It’s perfect.” A hotel/apartment complex, not 200 yards away from our current location, had a room available in which we could both stay. God provides. The beds even have real mattresses as opposed to showroom Styrofoam blocks! (features of our current apartment that have caused quite the back ache.) Oh how our mindsets shift when normalcy becomes luxury.

          Hopefully, this will be our last move. Lugging a 50 pound suitcase up 3 flights of stairs is not my idea of fun. Most of all, I’m relieved that we can finally have a place to unpack and officially call our Thai home without fear of uprooting again. I’ve always been the type of person who needs comfort and stability within situations (not in the physical sense regarding material things, but regarding mental and emotional ease.) I still like being a creature of habit, even though those habits include cold showers. Another comforting thing we’ve incorporated into our routine has been reading. When I met Kelsey Crow almost a year ago, one of the first facts I learned about her was her devotion to Harry Potter. Obsession, infatuation and mania don’t describe her loyalty. In her words, she “lives it.” So imagine my predicament, when I, an otherwise well-read English graduate, had to hang my head and say, “No, I’ve never read Harry Potter, nor have I seen the movies.” So, here I am, over a decade following the pandemonium, enjoying and being captivated by the Harry Potter series, somehow still completely unaware of their outcome. And that’s not the best part. Kels is reading them aloud, a treat complete with various accents, inflection, discussion topics, question & answer sessions and an anticipating voice (one that knows all the secrets and won’t answer my incessant questions!) We plan to read a book, watch its movie, etc. Every day, I can’t wait to get home for our reading sessions. I’m not sure who enjoys it more. Kesley, reading to a Potter novice, or me, listening to a Potter expert.

          As enticing as Harry Potter is, we always canvas the city for dinner first before returning home. We’ve grown accustomed to several places, knowing exactly what pictures to point to and what to expect when we’re handed a plate. This week though, one of the girls from my school came home to spend the afternoon with us. Nook, a girl who isn't even in any of my classes, struck up a conversation with me one day, and we've been buddies ever since. Funny how the only girl I knew before we left Lampang was also named Nook. Anyhow, the rain was falling in heavy sheets the second we left school. We floated up to our apartment and waited for the storm to pass before heading out to dinner. Finally, sporting our ponchos, jackets and umbrellas, we made the short trek to town. This would be the first time we had a native Thai speaker along to interpret the menus. After I told Nook the ingredients I liked, the cook arrived with a bowl of the yummiest Thai food I'd had all week, Tom Yum Gung. This soup is filled with shrimp, fish, lemon grass, lime leaves and coconut milk, combining an authentic mixture of spice, sweet, sour and salt. Masterpiece in a bowl. After dinner, I listened as Nook communicated with the store owner. The sweet man snagged a University passer-by and had him write something on a sheet of paper. After a few moments, the store owner returned with the menu's Thai scrawl translated into English so we could order for ourselves. We bowed our heads and thanked him profusely. We will most definitely be back to visit such an accommodating food stand as this one.

          Another naughty food we've discovered is Thai ice cream. Fortunately (or unfortunately) the supposed best one in the city is only steps from our apartment. Thai ice cream as a unique texture, but it is more-so famous for it's queer toppings. Even "toppings" isn't a technically accurate term considering that the extras are put at the bottom of the bowl. Candied pumpkin, kernels of corn, a mysterious black jelly, pinwheels of fruit that resemble mushrooms, and several other identifiable things. I find myself searching for the Oreos and Butterfinger but to no avail. Thankfully, we've discovered a topping (or bottomer?) that surpasses even m&m's and cookie dough. And that, my friends, is sweet sticky rice. Sweet rice, died the color blue, topped with tiny scoops of coconut ice cream, a splash of sweetened condensed milk and peanuts create the most palatable dessert on the planet. It was worth the price of the plane ticket, folks.

          Unless you join me here in Thailand (Something you should consider doing. Start saving now. I will be here one year!) you can never quite grasp what we see each day. Short of strapping a camera on my head as we walk down the crowded streets, markets and hallways of our classrooms, you can never understand the things we see. Not necessarily all are shocking, but a lot of them are. Everything from fashion, to transportation, to lifestyle, to cleanliness, to stray dogs, to the little girls with whom I spend my day. . . 

It is drastically different. 

          Though this culture shock leaves my head spinning most days, I'm brought to a complete halt when I check my email to find that Noon has emailed me again to practice her English, apologizing for her poor grammar before each farewell. "If I use what is wrong because I had speak little English. Don't forget write me back. Love Noon."

          Or when Poppy, another sweet student crawls into my office, sits at my feet and asks to sing Jason Mraz with me. Turning on the song and somehow hearing every English word clearly through the mouth of a child who can't otherwise communicate with me, is a humbling thing, and I can't begin to describe how my heart feels afterward

Sweet Pork & Cold Showers.

With week two of Uttaradit life in the books, I couldn’t be more content. My classes have fallen into a steady routine, and surprisingly, I’m beginning to recognize some faces amongst the masses. I’ve been fortunate enough to be surrounded by kind and enthusiastic co-workers, both foreign and native to Thailand. Steve, one of my co-teachers and 5 year resident of Thailand, is a robust and brash Brit from northern England. Ray, the petite South African biology teacher, whose accent is a mixture of British, African and “fabulous, ” entertains the office all day with his antics, complaints about the heat and his quest for chick flicks that make him cry. Nancy, one of the Thai department  directors, brings me breakfast nearly every day. I’m spoiled to the fruit, potatoes and sweet pork she so graciously brings to me.

Going off on a quick tangent, sweet pork and sticky rice has become one of my favorite Thai tastes. And this is truly a feat, being that I usually avoid any pig products. Sweet, tangy strips of pulled pork formed beside a ball of chewy, hot rice is my new weakness. After tasting it for the first time, I asked Nancy for directions to the particular food stand. Granted, searching for specific stands in Thailand is akin to looking for a needle in a haystack while blindfolded, but sweet pork is and will always be worth the trek.

After school one day this week, Kelsey and I decided to decipher the map Nancy had drawn out and attempt to find the pork stand. Since our destination was too far to travel on foot, we decided to take my bike through the traffic- again, a risk worth taking.

Digressing a little - Last weekend, I jokingly suggested we both hop aboard my bike and travel the back roads near our apartment. The narrow, grated “seat” over the back wheel, probably more commonly used as a place to carry books, now serves as a place to carry a passenger. One evening, waiting until the sun set so as not to be embarrassed, we attempted the balancing act. First I then Kelsey tried peddling while the other sat on the back “seat,” holding on for dear life and frantically trying to find a place for feet to rest without getting tangled in the spinning rungs. I can’t remember a time I laughed so hard- that silent laugh where you’re trying desperately to catch your breath. After several wobbly starts, we became rather adept with this new skill of balancing. Although it looks hilarious, we seem to fit in with this “see how many people we can cram onto one mode of transportation” Asian culture.

Back to Operation Pork. We decided to cover more ground and bike instead of walk. On the way though, we were distracted by an outdoor gym on a street corner where chiseled Thais were tangled in a mess of Thai boxing. Beckoning us to come watch, the boys began to show off, throwing one another across the ring. We attempted to communicate and ask if they would teach us, but their English began and ended with a hello and a friendly wave. We continued watching. In the meantime though, storm clouds brewed, and rain began to fall. Rain spontaneously erupts here, and the droplets are unusually large, and they fall in heavy sheets. Just one drop can hit you in the face, and it splashes with a sting. Still determined, we donned our rain gear and hopped on the bike. Three intersections, several curves and two turns later, we arrive safe and luckily unscathed. Kelsey traversed the Thai traffic with stellar ease, and I, having found a place for my feet was able to make trip a more aerodynamic one.  Long story summarized, we did not find the pork, but we found a new spot in town and food just as yummy.

This week at Daruni school, we had a special ceremony called "Wan Kru" dedicated to teacher appreciation. With their daily admiration and respect already at such a humbling level, I was shocked to be part of such a day as this one. For days, the students created flower arrangements, weaving leaves and buds in intricate patterns. Candles and sprigs of flower or carved fruit adorned each pot, and the children carried them around proudly. Since there are so many enrolled at Daruni, we had three separate ceremonies, each with over 1,000 kids participating. Sitting on the stage with other teachers, I watched as row after row after row of Thai students, knelt and bowed and sang to us. It was unlike anything I've ever experienced. Then, with flowers in hand, they shuffled on their knees toward the row of teachers, flattened themselves into a bow and gave their prized arrangements away. Even though the event was designed mainly for Thai teachers, I was still bombarded by my M-3 students and showered with flowers. Jasmine ropes were woven with small pink roses, folded leaves shaped like envelopes held orange flowers, candles and incense sticks, and golden pots were bursting with color. My face literally hurts from the smiles I returned and the many pictures I took with my kids, some of whom I didn't even know. I was, however, proud that I recalled a cohort of M-3s named Kik, Yok and Nice.

Earlier this week, as I sat eating boiled eggs from a little bag, barbecued meat on a stick (chicken, but I'm not sure which part), some nondescript casserole wrapped in leaf, a cake with black beans and rice drenched in coconut milk, I had a thought. And at risk of sounding too cheeky, I will say, I don’t know many people willing or brave enough to eat such things. And it's not just eating quirky things, riding a bike in the rain through crazy Thai traffic or exploring new places that enthrall me, but it's undergoing the challenge of this new life altogether. And I’m thankful to be spending it with a fellow traveler as much if not more zealous to embrace this new adventure as I am.

It seems as though what was customary back home, mere routine, has become necessity. For example, I won’t have a hot shower for a year, but I enjoy the cold shower because it cools me off after a insanely hot day and because I really need it. To spare yucky details, I will just say that even if I took 2 showers daily, I would still feel sort of dirty. The heat, humidity, dust, bugs, walking, climbing stairs, riding bikes, trudging through rain and other daily tasks require impeccable hygienic attention. Melting immediately, my makeup, deodorant, body spray, hair products and any other attempt at freshening up are scoffed at by the Thai climate. When I eat, the meals are portion controlled (in a bag or on a stick), and I eat because I am, most often times, truly hungry. When I ride my bike, it isn't just for exercise, pleasure or from sheer boredom, it is because peddling is my only way to get to school. When I speak or smile to the Thai people or my children, it's not polite habit, it is an appreciated learning experience.

Basically, at the end of each day, I sleep well knowing that each task, each step, each bite of food, each word, each smile was necessary. Learning that daily life shouldn't be a rut or a routine has been the most valuable aspect of my journey thus far, and I feel more fulfilled than I ever have in my life.

Good Morning Teacher Jade

It's currently 9 AM, and the school office doesn't turn on the air condition until 10. I will pass the time at my desk under this swaying fan and describe my whirlwind of a week.
The weekend began with some uncertainty as we learned that the Bunyawatt School in Lampang could no longer employ us due to funding disputes. In a matter of 48 hours, we were placed elsewhere. Utaradit, a smaller town 2 hours south, was in need of more "forang," foreign people, so rather than compromise the integrity of our corporation and pay high taxes in Lampang, we moved to a city with greater appreciation and need. Kelsey and I have been placed in separate schools, but we live in the same apartment. A sigh of relief... For now...

Before the move though, we were able to visit the Elephant Conservation Center, an expedition with fellow teachers we had missed. Hopping in the back of a Taxi truck, we and our spunky language coach and young friend named Nook, started up the mountain. After being driven on a tour bus up the mountain, a near jungle safari in itself, we arrived at the show grounds where ten elephants with trained riders paraded around performing tricks, rolling logs and painting elaborate pictures with their trunks. They bowed graciously to the crowd. It brought tears to my eyes to see these gentle giants so willingly perform.
When the show was over, we greeted the elephants who only nuzzled us long enough to discover that we had no food. Their huge brown eyes were so aware, so kind & so wise.
Next, we hopped aboard the back of an elephant for a real safari. The crude seating on the creature's back rocked a dangerous amount as he ambled carefully into the water. I cringed, hoping we wouldn't topple into the murky water below. I relaxed though. Because after all, I was traveling on the most majestic and memorable of transportation. Serenity was broken though when a flapping, airy noise (akin to a frustrated horse) sounded behind us. Our safari "driver" with his straw hat and tunic turned to us with a crooked, toothy grin. "That you? That you?" he jested.
Yes, elephants have massive gas.
We continued on our journey, the scenery of which resembled a scene from Kipling's Jungle Book.

On the way home we stopped at a market for lunch. Having only witnessed a few of these, I was overwhelmed by the rows of raw meat, pickled vegetable, fresh fruit, sausage on a stick and thousands of other delicacies. The US Health Department would have had a fit, but I ate anyway. People walked around with soup and noodles in bags, sipping the contents with a straw. Balls of sticky rice were scooped into plastic baggies, people nibbling those as they walked too.

Back at the apartment, our bags were packed to move to Uturadit. Open arms and smiling faces greeted us as we boarded the school bus. We were on our way. Attempting to nap while a Thai drives a vehicle is an absurd undertaking. The roads are a free-for-all here. Cars speed at least 30 miles per hour over the speed limit, leap frogging one another and passing 4 or 5 cars at a time around a mountainous curves. The threat of head on collisions are not feared because on-coming traffic will just run off the road and let them pass (much to the dismay of motor bikes who traverse the shoulders.)


This new apartment makes our previous place in Lampang seem uncivilized. To be honest, it was. Holes in the ceiling, no AC, no hot water and basically unfurnished. Our new apartment is completely opposite, but because it is sponsored by Kelsey's school, I am at risk of having to move- a problem we hope to overcome with Dr. Nirund's "poo-yai" or seniority that is highly respected. I hope so, anyway. Kels and I are a team.

Today is my third day at Uturadit Duranee School. My first day was ultimate culture shock as 2,500 girls swarmed about a college sized campus. Yes, my school is an all girl school, with the exception of about 50 extremely out of place (or lucky) boys. Until the day I leave, I will never be accustomed to their respectful terror. I walk by, and the dear girls bow and cringe at the sight of me. They smile and put their hands up in prayerful admiration and even bow on their knees at a teacher's desk. Their level of respect cannot be matched. The first day, I had to introduce myself at assembly in front of the whole school. If that didn't cure stage fright, I'm hopeless. I stood there with a microphone, looking out over a field of children lined in perfect rows and dressed in perfect uniform. What a sight it was.

Today was my first day to teach on my own, and I was anxious. In interest of time, I won't explain the Thai grade system, but I am teaching Mathayom 3, which consists of 14 and 15 year old girls. I crept into my class and saw 50 pairs of glistening black eyes staring at me and just as many smiles and gracious nods. They stood up, and in unison say, "Good Morning Teacher Jade." By the way, after several failed attempts at explaining and pronouncing my name, I am known as and called Jade. It's actually fun to have a Thai alias, and it's especially fun to hear my name called across campus by a group of giggling girls.

Today was just an intro. I will only teach these girls once a week since I am teaching 12 levels of Mathayom 3's, and even though there is no hope of remembering names, I asked the girls to introduce themselves. Names like Bamboo, Ploy, Mai, Bow and CD are among them. I reviewed basic conversation, we played games and practice questions such as "How are you?" and "How old are you?" The girls are smarter and more advanced than I had imagined, so I will have my work cut out for me as I try to plan adequate amounts to entertain their hungry minds.
As of now, I still have celebrity status. I've been in pictures, given out my email and explained why I have 2 different colors of hair at least a billion times. I hope their admiration continues because I know that it will only reflect itself in the classroom. Their attentiveness in impeccable, but their confidence is lacking. I know we will learn a lot from one another.

In my first M-3 class, I had them write their name and a few fun facts about themselves. After the lesson, as I gathered the papers, I couldn't help but be choked up by their honest and innocent answers. Some loved Rihanna, others Lady Gaga. Some dreamed of visiting America, others had an insatiable desire to learn English. One paper specifically that caught my eye, and a recurring scenario that is all too true in this county, said, "My family is poor but we are happy because everyone love."

That's what it's all about after all, right? I love these kids.

Lizards in Lampang

Only 3 days into my stay here in Thailand, and I feel as if even a blog each day won’t cover the details. Our arrival was met with such hospitality and day one was a blur of orientation and exhaustion. We were ushered around Dr. Nirund’s campus and then taken to a Farewell Dinner in the city, where the teachers all went their separate ways. Children from local schools danced for us in traditional Thai dress and fashion. It was absolutely wonderful. Though it was a memorable night, I could barely hold my eyes open because of lack of sleep. 

After the ceremony, our transportation came to take us back to our on campus town houses. And by transportation, I mean a pickup truck with a roof over the bed and a row of seats. Rode rules are merely myths here. Motorbikes with an unsafe amount of passengers dart in and out of traffic, the roads have no lines, there are no speed limits and basically, you travel at your own risk.

Our apartment is basic. The two story jungle home in Lampang is complete with live lizard decor, running water, a broken air condition and swiveling fan. Home sweet home. On paper these things sound so rudimentary and miserable, but really, learning to live our of my comfort zone and accepting and embracing the culture has made me happier than one could imagine. It is a real accomplishment. 

We’ve had a few language lessons, but speaking Thai will be a daunting task because their vocabulary is 90% tonal. One word could mean 7 different things depending on inflection. Regardless, we’ve learned the important things like “Hello,” “Thank you,” and “Little bit of spice.”

Unfortunately we were told yesterday that our school is having a funding dispute, and we may not be able to teach there. What that could mean for our future stay, I’m not sure, but I know we will be in good hands and good spirits either way. I really hope we can stay here though because I’ve become acclimated to this area, the people and I’m thrilled to have the chance to be involved with the Bunyawatt school which has over 4000 students enrolled.

With no school until Tuesday, we have the weekend ahead of us to explore and perhaps visit the elephant conservation. So many things await us, but I can’t get impatient, because we have an extended stay!

There are so many ornate events in this country, and I can’t wait to be a part of each. In November, there are Lotus flower ceremonies in which flowers and candles set sail on the river to honor the river goddess and beg her forgiveness for any disrespect they’ve shown. In Chiang Mai, there is breathtaking lantern releasing ceremony where thousands of candle lanterns float into the sky and disappear, creating a flickering, starry sky.

One thing is for sure, Thais are a peaceful and appreciative people. They may not ever be on time or adhere to schedules, but their heart is brimming with kindness. I ran into a couple of older Thai women in the bathroom yesterday who didn’t speak very good English. Trying to be polite, I bowed and respectfully greeted one of the ladies who was cleaning the bathroom. She continued mopping, but then disappeared for a few seconds. I was washing my hands when she came back, and I turned to smile at her. 

In broken English she said, “My friend teach me say that you are beautiful girl.”

“Kap-Khun-Ka,” I said, grateful to have remembered a thankful term.

It brought tears to my eyes that she would rush away to ask her friend how to give me, a stranger, an undeserved compliment, when she had no idea who I was. Pure, innocent kindness is so refreshing, and it gives me the desire and drive to learn just enough Thai so that I can return such hospitality.